Laowai

I think everyone agreed that the volcano hike was the highlight of our trip. I didn’t know much about Mount Etna before but I learned that it is one of the world’s most active volcanoes. It has constant activity – from gas bubbling up through the ground to major lava explosions that seem to happen every few years. I had no idea you could drive up and hike on an active volcano. We didn’t even go up all that high – we decided to skip the gondola ride because it was so cloudy when we arrived – but we had the most fascinating walk! 

The ground was so very black and it seemed crunchy and light under our feet. It reminded us of crushed oreos. And our bright coats stood out vividly.

We could see big round deep craters where once there had been an explosion. Some areas were covered in black sand and some areas were all bumpy, sharp rocks. Then there were big rocks sitting in flat spots that must have been thrown up by an explosion. There was still some snow on the ground and the clouds would come and go. It was erie in the clouds and then there would be a bit of blue sky and we could see all the way down to the sea. There were only little bits of grass here and there – no trees.

Even though everything was sort of dark and there wasn’t much life it didn’t feel depressing – it just felt interesting and strange and alive.

Bea gets to go to Mount Vesuvius when she has her school trip to Italy next month. She’ll get to compare two volcanoes!

Next up – our last bit of Sicily.

For the next part of our vacation we were going to a new hotel but on the way we wanted to check out a gorge that we heard about. And we wanted to go for a hike. Well, it didn’t really work out as we imagined.

We did see the gorge – with it’s interesting rock formations that were created from cooling lava. First we almost paid about 25 Euros to get into the area. It was a run-down hokey tourist attraction with fake dinosaurs and stupid souvenirs. Luckily I had read that there was a public access up the road where we could see the gorge for a few Euros. So we went there expecting to see the gorge an have access to some hiking along it. But no – it was just a bunch of stairs down to a small area of the river enclose by rock. My dad would have called it a zoo. 

We quickly did some Googling to try to find an area for hiking. The land was beautifully hilly and it was a sunny day and we really wanted to explore. Brian found some trails close by so we hopped in the car and we were delighted to find a marked trail head. Off we went. The trail was overgrown but we were hiking… for about 100 feet. Then the trail abruptly stopped and it was fenced off. You can see Brian’s frustrated look above and I’m rolling my eyes behind my glasses below.

Time to bag it and drive to our next destination. It was another moment where I felt a little sad for Italy. Maybe we were missing something but it seemed really hard, as tourists, to take advantage of the highlights of the area. The area is also where some parts of The Godfather were filmed so it seems like they could really take advantage of that. Like the Sound of Music tours in Austria – every American loves The Godfather and it would be fun to see the sights.

So off we went to Taormina – a gem of a city that has been popular with tourists for a long time. It’s perched above the sea and full of charm (and people). We started with a walk to Isola Bella. A British lady bought the island in 1890 and made it her home. The home was built right into the rock of the island it was charming and run down.

I didn’t take many food photos but I was pleasantly surprised at the delicious meals we had. Seems like sometimes when you go to a popular spot like this the food can be so so. But we found that there were great restaurants where you could tell the people really cared about the food they were making. Yum! 

Here are some photos from a hike above the city of Taormina. Claire and I turned back part way up because I was pooped (sorry Brian) but I did appreciate all the flowers and the views.

Next up – a volcano!

The next day of our trip we spent at a nature reserve called Vendicari and then to a beautiful city called Noto.

We saw flamingos!

And lots of little lizards.

I loved our walk. We went along some wetlands and along a rocky shore of the Mediterranean Sea and then up a hill with colorful scrubby plants.

I like to do this magic trick where I crop out all the other people and it seems like we are on vacation without any other tourists. Well on this vacation I also felt like I was always cropping out the sad crumbling parts of Italy too. It’s a bit of a shock (especially coming from Zurich) to see the state of the buildings and towns and roads. In the middle of our hike there was this house (?) perched next to the trail – abandoned and crumbling. And we would see big piles of garbage along country roads. I know there is a lot of poverty and there are a lot of immigrants trying their best to just make it. But it just makes me sad to see beautiful buildings falling apart and surrounded by garbage. It feels like the economic situation for Italy is quite bleak.

And then we drove to Noto – the driving was crazy in the little towns. Brian was forever getting honked at for driving the speed limit or being a polite driver. The main highway through the country was fine but the roads in the towns are incredibly narrow and chaotic. They’re just not made for cars. 

Noto was another place affected by earthquakes in the past. More baroque buildings made out of the prettiest honey colored stone.

The girls are saying enough “enough looking at churches, time to get a gelato!”

Next up – Taormina.

Syracuse was founded in 734 or 733 BC by Greek settlers. It was a very important area – rivaling Athens even. So in the middle of town are super old ruins surrounded by lots of baroque buildings that came after some big earthquakes around 1600. Everything is made of layer upon layer of history. The roads are tiny and everything except the big churches seems to be crumbling around the edges. We stayed in the old historic part of town called Ortiga. 

Lots of cats

Easter treats – completely different than Zurich Easter treats.

Claire likes the marzipan

The next day we were off to see some more super old stuff. We saw a Greek theatre that was carved into a big hill of rock. And we saw something called the Ear of Dionysius – an old stone quarry that was also used as a prison in ancient times. Again we discovered that it was a bit hard to tell what we were looking at. It was interesting but I would have loved some explanations with our entrance fee. 

The theatre was partly closed because they were getting it ready for a show. So cool that they still have performances!

We bought some granitas from a friendly and talkative Sicilian man (chocolate and strawberry).

The next morning Brian and I went to the street market and got some treats for a picnic that we had planned for the next day.

Up next – a hike along the sea

I’ve been trying to get all my photos down to just a few that represent the fun trip we had to Sicily. I’m reminded of my dad showing slides of our vacations to various family members. We were captive in the dark since it was a slide show. I have the most vivid memory of the smell that came from the slide projector. I guess it was the light bulb warming the film or burning dust. I don’t know, but I can imagine that smell along with the hum of the slide projector. And I remember being interested for a bit – but then a dull boredom would set in. 

All this to say – I’m about to show a bunch of vacation photos. Let the scrolling begin.

We flew into Catania on the East side of the island. We started out exploring a Roman theater. We discovered that Roman and Greek ruins were everywhere in Sicily. It felt hard to grasp just how old everything was. The sights were amazing but the interpretation was not great. Since the places like the theater below have been built upon and added to and endured earthquakes I wondered what was what exactly. But it was super interesting all the same.

Roman cat

Then we walked around Catania some more. The area was influenced by a big earthquake a few hundred years ago and many baroque buildings were built after that.

The first of many gelatos (chocolate and coconut)

We had to drive a bit to where we were staying that night. On the way we stopped at a small village called Brucoli. We examined the shells and little creatures and took in the fresh breeze. Aaaaaah.

Next stop – Syracuse

Oh I do love the relief of Spring. The warmth, the colors, the sunshine. And Easter – for me – a chance to celebrate it all.

I’m thankful that coloring Easter eggs never gets tiring for us. Bea says even when she’s 35 she will happily color eggs with me. 

This year the Easter Bunny filled their eggs with puzzle pieces. Then the puzzle led them to the next clue in their Easter scavenger hunt.

After their egg hunt I thoroughly enjoyed puttering around the kitchen making a bunny shaped carrot cake. 

And then we took a nice long Easter walk through the woods and the farmland in our town. 

These lilacs must have just popped out right before I walked by. Mmmmmmm.

Now I’ll complete our perfect Easter with an egg salad sandwich and a nap in the hammock. I hope you had a lovely sunny Easter too.

And we ate lots of gelato and granitas and calzones.

It was so sunny and warm and I took (maybe) too many photos. 

These are the sweetest photos of my mom being her wonderful grandma self.

And there are my feet.